ChambĂ©ry's medieval Old Town reveals its beauty gradually. Rush through its lanes and you risk missing hidden courtyards, murals and well-preserved 14th- to 18th-century hĂŽtels (town houses), many of which are inhabited by modern ChambĂ©riens. Streets worth wandering include tiny rue du SĂ©nat de Savoie , cobbled rue Juiverie and boutique-dotted rue de la MĂ©tropole . To peep inside private residences and uncover lesser-known corners, enquire about walking tours at HĂŽtel de Cordon ; usually at 2.30pm on weekends (âŹ6, French only). For a gorgeous perspective in every direction, stand at the intersection of arcaded rue de Boigne and long, handsome place St-LĂ©ger. Once home to aristocrats, rue de la Croix dâOr hides the HĂŽtel du ChĂąteauneufâs rose-draped courtyard, with intricate wrought-iron grilles affording fine views of the castle. Winding to the base of the chĂąteau's massive walls, 14th-century rue Basse-du-ChĂąteau is most atmospheric when the afternoon sun warms its caramel-coloured façades.